1/30 AM

Time: 8:30
Location: work
Tide: +3' and rising
Direction: 231
Size: 1-2'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: None really, Santa Anna like day.

Comments:
On the way up from the garage, got a comment on the board. On the way out, meet Ben who was running the little surf shack who liked my board. These are actually the first comments I have gotten.

Turned out to be a really fun, summer like day. One guy made fun of me for sitting so far out, but I was snagging some waves.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/29 Lunch

Time: 12:30
Location: Law
Tide: +2?
Direction: ?
Size: 2'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: slight

Comments:
Yawn...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/28 Lunch

Time: Lunch
Location: Law
Tide: +4 and dropping around noon
Direction: 281
Size: 2'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 56
Wind Conditions: Windy, kiteboarder were getting ready.

Comments:
Eh... not so ok today. Got a few rides, but also a lot of baby closeouts. Board is really squirrelly when I'm on the nose and there is no juice on the wave... but still was able to get some long rides.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/27 Lunch **

Time: 12
Location: Turmo
Tide: +3
Direction: 283
Size: 2-4'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Slight wind, picking up

Comments:
Turned out to be really fun. Long rides, all of 'em. Hung out just south of the point and rode most of them all the way in. There were a couple of spongers out there, but I never saw them get any rides. Wish I would have gotten out earlier...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/26 lunch

Time: 12
Location: Turmo
Tide: +2
Direction: 276
Size: 2-4'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Stormy

Comments:
There were only a couple of guys out and a guy who had just gotten out of the water. The first thing he did when he got to his car was put on his yamika. I asked him how it was and he said "terrible!"

Not really too choppy, made it out just fine. Waves were either mushy or the drops were dumping to steep.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/25 Lunch

Time: Lunch
Location: Turmo
Tide: +2
Direction: 276
Size: 2-4'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Windy, but no kiteboarders yet.

Comments:
Turned out to be really fun. I was sticking to the back of the board and carving some fun turns. Got some nice long rides. Rocks were showing. Not many people out either.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/24 Lunch

Time: 11
Location: Law > Pump House
Tide: +2
Direction: 267
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: windy, but no kite boarders yet.

Comments:
Used my homemade rack for the first time... need to make some adjustments.
Lots of closeouts at first. There was a couple on longer boards snatching every wave on the one good break. I was really able to throw the board around and go where I wanted. The Eagle prepped me well for today.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/23 Lunch

Time: 11
Location: Turmo
Tide: +6 @ 7:15
Direction: 220
Size: 2-3, 4'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Slight with occasional drizzle. Skies were gray and winter seemed to have returned.

Comments:
A lot smaller and coming from the south. You could really tell a difference just looking at the waves. Got some fun ones, but it's a lot harder to maneuver when it's slow.


This photo was taken later in the day from La Jolla looking south towards PB.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/22 AM

Time: 7 ish
Location: Turmo
Tide: +5 and falling
Direction: 277
Size: 3 To 5 Feet With Mixed Swell.
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 56
Wind Conditions: None, but the weather is starting to change. It wasn't sunny and rain is predicted later today.

Comments:
Shelby and Alison came walked down with me and took a few photos. Honestly, it did pick up a bit after they left. No, really! Got a bit of a late start which resulted in a quick session. I got several good rides, but it was closing out on the inside (odd for Turmo). The tide was high and there you could feel the backwash.







Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/21 AM

Time: 7ish
Location: Turmo
Tide: +5 and falling
Direction: 273
Size: 4-6
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: None

Comments:
Almost a two star day, but just not consistent enough. Towards the end of the set it picked up and I got some fun rides. Need to work on getting out of the closeouts more gracefully. Did full on pearl once... first time in a long time. Grabbed a nice long right at the end that shortened my walk. Ended up getting out where some sort of poodle pup was having fun trying to drink the water.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/20 AM

Time: 7
Location: Turmo
Tide: 4+ and falling
Direction: 2
Size: 3-5,6'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 56
Wind Conditions: None, still summer nice out as far as the air temp.

Comments:
Got up early and logged the Eagle down to Turmo. Not as big or consistent as yesterday... at least not with the tide the way it was. Maybe it will be better later on. Still fun though and I was able to get some great rides. I had one wave where I had to kick out, and I was worried that I might damage the board. It is easy enough to hop of the face if you can figure out when it's going to closeout. Did pearl a couple of times, but getting it dialed in. Need to fix/replace the leash lanyard and probably get a new leash. I would also like to get a canvas bag for it and maybe some different fins.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/19 Lunch **

Time: 1:30 is
Location: Old Mans
Tide: +1 and rising
Direction: 277
Size: 4-6'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: None really, hot too

Comments:
First time on the new double eagle! Finally got the board. I was a little disappointed not to have gotten it this past Friday, and I really had to followup with them today to get it. That being said, I'm just really impressed with the way the board turned out. The tint turned out just how I imagined it would. She's my biggest board at 9' 6" and my heaviest at 20 lbs. What a ride! I snagged my first wave with very little effort and road it a good distance. She's nice, stable and goes where I wanted. I had several rally long rides and only once didn't have a graceful landing.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/18 Lunch **

Time: 2 ish for a couple of hours
Location: Turmo
Tide: +2.5
Direction: 279
Size: 4-6, 7'
Board: Bonzer as a quad, like a warm butter knife!
Water Temp: 56
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
Oh what a day, a little more size and consistency and this could have been a three star day. I had at least three really looooooong rights. Paddled so much, my shoulders got tired. Saw skip out there with a "girl" that was wooping it up so much everyone was watching them.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/17 Lunch

Time: 1
Location: Turmo, Old Mans, Pump House
Tide: +3
Direction: 279
Size: 2-4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: Kiteboarders came out at the end

Comments:
The big swell hadn't arrived while I was out there, although I did look better to the north. I got a ride at Turmo, paddled over towards the point and sat inside. After a while I got a slew of fun but short rides. Then I went over the the Pump House and got a few ho hum rides while the ponytailed kiteboarders were doing their circles.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/16 Lunch

Time: 12
Location: turmo
Tide: +3 maybe and rising
Direction: 278
Size: maybe a foot
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 58?
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
I trunked it today, got about 5 itty bitty waves and went home.

My bike was stolen last night.


Finally got ahold of Larry and the board should be ready either later today or Monday...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/15 AM

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +3 and rising
Direction: 279
Size: 1'!
Board: Longboard
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: None, nice summer like day

Comments:
Small stuff today. It really was 1' and required a long board. Got a few rides, talked to a sponger about the upcoming swell and went to work.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/14 AM

Time: 8:30
Location: Work
Tide: +4.5 and rising
Direction: 280
Size: small 1-2
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: None, but Santa Anna nice

Comments:
I was the only one out! Actually towards the end, there was a guy on the inside... and I was already way inside. These little guys were barely breaking and when the did it was right upon the shore.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/13 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: +4 and rising
Direction: 264
Size: 1-3'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: None, but great Santa Anna conditions.

Comments:
Brief check at Turmo & Law before settling on Reed st. Not much on it, but got a few fun rides. Longboarder's delight today.

Big surf predicted for Sat & Sun...


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/12

Time: +6 and rising
Location:
Tide:
Direction: 268
Size: 1-3'
Board:
Water Temp:
Wind Conditions:

Comments:


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/11 Lunch

Time: Noonish
Location: Turmo/Old Man's
Tide: +4 falling
Direction: 277
Size: 2-3
Board: Longboard
Water Temp: 57, but the air was 70's!
Wind Conditions: Nothing too bad

Comments:
Talked to a guy with a beautiful blue tint Skip Frye Double Eagle for a bit at the stairs to Old Man's. I asked him if "that" was a double eagle and he just kind of shrugged. And then pointed out a Skip and mentioned his friend was on a really nice pink board. I couldn't really tell because of the glare, but it was really nice out.

Then I walked down to surf and saw Skip loading up for the day. A lot of people were getting ready for the game (spoiler alert: San Diego loses). I had a fun longboard day and got some loooong rides. Tried to take videos, but nothing too solid, photos really show how nice it was though... like a summer day.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/10 Lunch

Time: 12
Location: North TP
Tide: +3 and falling
Direction: 279
Size: 2-4'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: strong offshore!

Comments:
Really strong offshore winds due to Santa Anna's. You had to close your eyes and just trust you were getting into the wave. Went with Alison. We haven't been here in a while. Saw dolphins and the Louis at the south entrance stated that he had seen a lot of wale activity.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/9 AM **

Time: 9:30
Location: OB Pier
Tide: +7 high
Direction: uknown, damn didn't check it and it's shifted... maybe 260?
Size: 2-4'
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: None until the end of the session

Comments:
Even though it was a monster high tide, it was a blast. Not too crowded either. Ended up meeting Adam over there. I don't know what it is, but it was breaking better than any place from Calumet south. Discovered a pretty big ding on the rail by the nose on the right hand side. Will need to dry out and be fixed before the next session...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/8 AM

Time: Noonish
Location: Law
Tide: +4
Direction: 266
Size: 2-4'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Santa Anna's, slight though

Comments:
Checked it out this AM, and it just wasn't any good. Lunch wasn't much better... but it is beautiful out. Full on Santa Anna conditions today; dry, hot and a slight wind from the west. Did easily get some rides on the pill. Just speaks to how well it floats I guess. Such a difference from the longboard.

When I went to check out Turmo at lunch, some old man in a sliver Civic taking his time getting around the parking lot. He stopped in such a way as to block going around after we rounded the bathrooms, so I backed it up and squeezed into a spot. I walked over to check out the surf after parking, and he walked over to me and he had two sets of glasses on. He asked if I was driving the car with Colorado plates and was jawing about how he was trying to pull around into that spot, but it was too tight. There were 75% of the spots open too! When I told him I didn't have CO plates he muttered something about having the wrong guy. Now I'm trying to be less confrentational... I was itching to tell him that he shouldn't be driving anymore - hang it up. It will happen to me one day though. As I was leaving I saw a large delivery truck make the corner with one quick point.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/7 AM

Time: 8
Location: Pump house
Tide: +4.5 and falling
Direction: 243
Size: 3-4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Not much on it, probably should have continued down south. Had to sit inside Turmo for rides which were short. The only way I could get on them was by kicking hard and getting way up on the nose. The pump house wasn't much better as the waves that were breaking were closing out. The size wasn't there either...


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/6 AM

Time: AM
Location: work
Tide: +3.5 and falling
Direction: 199
Size: 2-3
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 59
Wind Conditions:

Comments:
Short session, but fun. Got some fun little rides. When I first got out, there was a big closeout set. All the rides were fast. It's amazing how well the pill floats relative to it's size. There was a bit of a crowd out there.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/5 AM

Time: 8
Location:
Tide: +2.5 falling
Direction: 213
Size: 2-3
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions:

Comments:
Lots of closeouts, I would skip this spot next time. Trouble was that Turmo wasn't breaking... so not sure where else to go.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/4 PM **

Time: 4
Location: Turmo
Tide: 3+
Direction: 211
Size: 2-4,5'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: kind of strong

Comments:
Still fun, good size waves coming up and not much of a crowd either. Big difference in the feel between the spacecake and fish. More tossable and able to make more sections. Got several rides with barely a paddle. Also it's fun because the sun is backlighting the waves. Plus the big shadow as you paddle for a wave adds to the thrill.

Got into one that I tried to pull out of and got the leash wrapped around my ankle. Felt like an indian rope burn, luckily it was not a very powerful wave.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/4 AM ***

Time: 9
Location: Turmo
Tide: +2
Direction: 216
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Spacecake
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Not bad

Comments:
I got a right that was so long, my legs got tired. Some really fun stuff was breaking pretty far out. Actually ended up on the rock in the middle of Turmo at one point, but no damage. Worked my way to Old Man's and picked up the scraps that were reforming. Super fun, but I wish I had my 2x eagle... Burritod up and resting for second session.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/3 lunch **

Time: 11
Location: Pump House
Tide: +3
Direction: 278
Size: 2-4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
It rained last night and I left the wet suit out. So, wet wet suit. Walked down with Katie and Alison who continued on the MB. Really fun day with some nice outside sets.




Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/2 AM **

Time: 9
Location: OB Pier
Tide:+3 and rising to 4
Direction: 276
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Texture

Comments:
Another really fun day in OB. It was bigger and held up well and wasn't that crowded.
Ended up seeing Mike and baby Molly in the parking lot as I was packing up. They had gotten coffee from New Break and were off to the auto show downtown.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/1/2009! AM

Time: 10
Location: Pump House
Tide: +4.5
Direction: 278
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Some texture, picked up more towards the end of the session.

Comments:
Lots of "Happy New Year" exchanges, even took a photo for a family. Saw an old guy paddle out in just his trunks.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide