Time: 9
Location: Turmo
Tide: +2 and filling in
Direction: 284
Size: 2-3
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None and then a little texture as the tide filled in.
Comments:
On the way out I talked to a guy snapping photos and he said he got a couple of shots of me and that I could check them out tonight on his site (http://www.stoneimagesurfshots.com/) I can't wait.
So the surf was less chaotic than yesterday, but also less size and power. I got a few fun ones, but there was a lot of waiting involved. Really nice day, but I haven't found any Easter eggs yet.
Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide
Showing posts with label 284. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 284. Show all posts
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
2/10 AM
Time: 10
Location: Turmo
Tide: +6?
Direction: 284
Size: 3-4, 6'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 56
Wind Conditions: Slight, but no where near as bad as last night.
Comments:
Some very fun ride, but also a lot of backwash. Took a while to get the good ones. Also, had to let a few go by because I couldn't tell what they were going to do. Each one left me kicking myself for passing. Was able to connect a bunch of sections on my last wave of the day.
Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide
Location: Turmo
Tide: +6?
Direction: 284
Size: 3-4, 6'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 56
Wind Conditions: Slight, but no where near as bad as last night.
Comments:
Some very fun ride, but also a lot of backwash. Took a while to get the good ones. Also, had to let a few go by because I couldn't tell what they were going to do. Each one left me kicking myself for passing. Was able to connect a bunch of sections on my last wave of the day.
Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide
Friday, December 26, 2008
12/26
Time: 8
Location: Turmo -> Diamond
Tide: +6
Direction: 284
Size: 4-6, 7'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: looks to be strong onshore
Comments:
I got the warning from Turmo Steve that "It is brutal out there!" He was shaking and clutching a cup of gas station coffee. The side shore current was really strong so I walked out as much as I could. If I would have tossed my board up in the air, it would have sailed away as far as the leash would have let it. There was a lot of water moving. At times you only had a second before you had to duck-dive the next wave. I couldn't get all the way outside (breaking past the pier) and before I knew it, I was at the pump house. There was some ridable stuff on the inside and I got three rides in. By that time I was at diamond... probably less than 30 minutes in the water total and a long walk home. I hope it cleans up later today.
On the loooong walk home, an older lady stuck up a conversation with me. She said that it was looking pretty big and that she used to surf before there were wet suits. She said that was when she was a teenager and didn't care about being cold. The probably also used to be able to have fires on the beach and drink beer legally. Would I trade a wet suit for beer and fire?
Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide
Location: Turmo -> Diamond
Tide: +6
Direction: 284
Size: 4-6, 7'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: looks to be strong onshore
Comments:
I got the warning from Turmo Steve that "It is brutal out there!" He was shaking and clutching a cup of gas station coffee. The side shore current was really strong so I walked out as much as I could. If I would have tossed my board up in the air, it would have sailed away as far as the leash would have let it. There was a lot of water moving. At times you only had a second before you had to duck-dive the next wave. I couldn't get all the way outside (breaking past the pier) and before I knew it, I was at the pump house. There was some ridable stuff on the inside and I got three rides in. By that time I was at diamond... probably less than 30 minutes in the water total and a long walk home. I hope it cleans up later today.
On the loooong walk home, an older lady stuck up a conversation with me. She said that it was looking pretty big and that she used to surf before there were wet suits. She said that was when she was a teenager and didn't care about being cold. The probably also used to be able to have fires on the beach and drink beer legally. Would I trade a wet suit for beer and fire?
Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide
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