12/26

Time: 8
Location: Turmo -> Diamond
Tide: +6
Direction: 284
Size: 4-6, 7'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: looks to be strong onshore

Comments:
I got the warning from Turmo Steve that "It is brutal out there!" He was shaking and clutching a cup of gas station coffee. The side shore current was really strong so I walked out as much as I could. If I would have tossed my board up in the air, it would have sailed away as far as the leash would have let it. There was a lot of water moving. At times you only had a second before you had to duck-dive the next wave. I couldn't get all the way outside (breaking past the pier) and before I knew it, I was at the pump house. There was some ridable stuff on the inside and I got three rides in. By that time I was at diamond... probably less than 30 minutes in the water total and a long walk home. I hope it cleans up later today.

On the loooong walk home, an older lady stuck up a conversation with me. She said that it was looking pretty big and that she used to surf before there were wet suits. She said that was when she was a teenager and didn't care about being cold. The probably also used to be able to have fires on the beach and drink beer legally. Would I trade a wet suit for beer and fire?

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide