Wednesday, December 31, 2008

12/31 Lunch

Time: 12
Location: Pump House
Tide: +4
Direction: 232
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Windy

Comments:
This will be the last time I get to surf this year... Met up with Alison for a short session. Not many people out and small waves. One kid was out sponging in just a black t-shirt and shorts. He stayed out a long time. I was impressed. Waves were small and crumbly, not well formed but not closing out too bad. Still a fun day.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

12/30 Lunch

Time: Lunch
Location: Work
Tide: +5
Direction: 225
Size: 1-2'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Nice sunny day (until the fog rolled in around sunset). Got several fun rides in. The thing about this board is that any sudden turms breaks the tail out - which can be fun.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, December 29, 2008

12/29 Lunch

Time: 12... back to work
Location: Work
Tide: 3
Direction: 206
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: Slight texture

Comments:
Little baby waves today. Lost of people out though... One guy was out being instructed by a guy that was doing more surfing than teaching. I almost told him to get his money back, but he was having fun.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, December 28, 2008

12/28 AM

Time: 11
Location: Pump hour -> Tower 27
Tide: ~+4
Direction: 199
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: Yep, really picked up at the end to the kite boarders delight.

Comments:
Went out with Alison for some fun waves. Not too much of a crowd. Got some fun long rides in as well as a lot of hit the lip and that's it.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, December 27, 2008

12/27 **

Time: 10:30
Location: Pump House
Tide: +5 and falling
Direction: 277
Size: 2-4
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: none really until the end

Comments:
Pretty fun with some larger than expected sets. There were a lot of guys out at old mans/turmo, but not much of a crowd at the pump house. Nice long rides on some outside sets that were pretty far out. Got pretty cold at the end, plus the wind was picking up and mixing it up too much. Time for the kite boarders.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, December 26, 2008

12/26 PM ***

Time: 2:30
Location: Turmo
Tide: -1 and rising
Direction: 286
Size: 2-4, 6'
Board: Bonzer as quad
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: Windy, but not as bad as this morning

Comments:
Wow, what a difference a few hours made... or maybe it was the tide... or maybe it was the wind. Any way you slice it, it was 180 degrees different. Some pretty fun drops for Turmo. Tide was pretty low. I was way out there maybe two piers out on a peak by myself for a while.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

12/26

Time: 8
Location: Turmo -> Diamond
Tide: +6
Direction: 284
Size: 4-6, 7'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: looks to be strong onshore

Comments:
I got the warning from Turmo Steve that "It is brutal out there!" He was shaking and clutching a cup of gas station coffee. The side shore current was really strong so I walked out as much as I could. If I would have tossed my board up in the air, it would have sailed away as far as the leash would have let it. There was a lot of water moving. At times you only had a second before you had to duck-dive the next wave. I couldn't get all the way outside (breaking past the pier) and before I knew it, I was at the pump house. There was some ridable stuff on the inside and I got three rides in. By that time I was at diamond... probably less than 30 minutes in the water total and a long walk home. I hope it cleans up later today.

On the loooong walk home, an older lady stuck up a conversation with me. She said that it was looking pretty big and that she used to surf before there were wet suits. She said that was when she was a teenager and didn't care about being cold. The probably also used to be able to have fires on the beach and drink beer legally. Would I trade a wet suit for beer and fire?

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, December 25, 2008

12/25 AM **

Time: 7:30
Location:
Tide: +6 high tide
Direction: 278
Size: 4-6,7'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 59
Wind Conditions: raining

Comments:
Current was strong, pushing north. I went in at the pump house and ended up right in front of the bathrooms by the time I got out. Size wasn't as big as I was expecting, but it was still fun with some good drops. I was the only one out for a while and got some really fun rides. They were a bit too mushy to connect really long rides though. I did sneak a couple of long ones in. Also saw a big full rainbow. Merry Christmas!


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

12/24 AM **

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +5 and falling
Direction: 291
Size: 2-3'
Board: wedding board
Water Temp: 60
Wind Conditions: None yet.

Comments:
Really fun day and no one really out. There was a SUP out there and dad teaching his daughter to surf. He did some victorious wooping after wave she caught a wave, and then he snagged the board for a couple of waves. Great shape and ok size. There were a few almost barrels.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

12/23 AM **

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +5
Direction: 278
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 59?
Wind Conditions: Windy, had rained last night.

Comments:
It was coldest so far this season. I was the only one out. Getting out was a bit more of a challenge than the last few days. It was a bit stormy, but I got a few long rides on some head high stuff. It wasn't too fast and a bit mushy. It made me wish I didn't get up late.

Nixon watch broken again. Today it was beeping uncontrollably and the display just showed some random pattern. Ripcurl backup is back on duty.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, December 22, 2008

12/22 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: +4 and falling
Direction: 270
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 60
Wind Conditions: None really at first, but started to pick up with a slight mist at the end.

Comments:
There was a 10 minute window when it was really good. Other than that, just a bit too much tide at first and all mixed up at the end. Again today, I was really able to dial it in for a super long right. There were several guys out with hoods! I had to share a peak with one buy that had hoods and boots on. He would butterfly to get into a wave...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, December 21, 2008

12/20 PM

Time: 4
Location: Tower 27
Tide: +3 and rising
Direction: 192
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 60
Wind Conditions: bit

Comments:
Nice sunset surf just before going to see the Nutcracker. This second session was remarkably more fun. Got some really long rides and felt dialed in to the board. Not many people out.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

12/20 lunch

Time: lunch
Location: Turmo
Tide: +1
Direction: 192
Size: 1-3'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62, maybe colder
Wind Conditions: Yep, but not enough for kite boarders.

Comments:
Hit up Turmo with Alison for some small, gutless surf.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, December 19, 2008

12/19 Lunch

Time: 12:30
Location: PB Drive
Tide: +2 and falling
Direction:
Size:
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Texture, cold and crisp air.

Comments:
Met up with Adam for some small wave fun. Actually wasn't as bad as it looked. I was thinking Wilken, but I didn't want to have to go back up to get it and just snagged the old school fish. Turned out to be a good choice. I got some rides that were actually pretty long and it wasn't closing out right away - lots of face time.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

12/18 AM

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +3 and falling
Direction: 194
Size: 1-3'
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, cold air though.

Comments:
Fun little peelers. I was the only one out on the peak. It was like a summer day... minus the crowds & a bit cooler.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

8/16 AM

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +5 and rising
Direction: 222
Size: 2-3, 4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
What a bright, sun shinny day today compared to yesterday. Caught some fun rides with one unmakeable drop even. But the tide was mushing it out and swamping out the rides. Saw a guy take such a long right, he probably had to take a bus back to his car. Another guy was getting out as I was loading up a commented on the water quality and how he might be growing another eyeball soon.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, December 15, 2008

12/15 PM **

Time: 2
Location: Turmo
Tide: +3 and falling
Direction: 216 (est)
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: A good amount

Comments:
Turned out to be way better than yesterday. I mean WAY better. More organized with tons of long rights. Longest rides in a while with long workable almost tubes.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, December 13, 2008

12/13 Lunch

Time: 12 ish
Location: Pump House
Tide: +6 and falling
Direction: 215
Size: 3-4'
Board: Wedding Board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Strong winds

Comments:
3 TO 4 FEET INCREASING TO 6 TO 8 FEET THIS EVENING WITH MAX SETS TO 10 FEET.
Pretty stormy, yet really fun surf. Waves would just jack up out of nowhere and connect to other little waves. It was like being at a skate park. No one else was really out save for a few beginners. Perfect!




Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, December 12, 2008

New board ordered

So after mulling it around for a while, I decided to go ahead and order a new board. I've wanted a Skip Frye like double eagle and contacted Larry Mabile to make the board. I had the day of today and went down to his shop and he had a blank all ready for me (which was odd). He cut it down to a what will eventually be a 9' 6" and drew on the template so I could see it. I'm going with a quad (hardest decision), green tint, three stringers.

12/12 AM **

Time:
Location: Ocean Beach Pier
Tide: +5 and falling
Direction: 216
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
First time I have surfed here. It was really fun shape, but crowded with a mixture of kooks and assholes. There were some bigger sets rolling through every 30 minutes or so. Meet up with Adam. There were some steep drops that I didn't think I would make, but I somehow did. I probably would have been more comfortable on the wedding board or the bonzer, but I was able to get some great rides on the ol' fish. Really workable faces...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, December 11, 2008

12/11 AM

Time: AM
Location: Work
Tide: +7 and falling
Direction: 198
Size: 2-4
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None

Comments:
Another big high tide day, but this one was more fun... location maybe? It was crowded with longer boarders, but I was able to get in a lot of fun rides. Got in on those ones that explode on your back on the drop, but so mushy it was fun.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

12/10 AM

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +6 and falling
Direction: 196
Size: 2-4
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, nice bright sun shiny day. Cold air temp though.

Comments:
Better than I expected with the high tide and all. Actually some nice "outside" sets came in and I got some longer than excepted rides. Not a lot of people out. One guy was inside of me, he should have had a fish!

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

12/9 AM **

Time: 8
Location: Pump House
Tide: +5.5 and falling
Direction: 246
Size: 4-5, 6
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: slight offshore, colder than normal air temp. Full suit.

Comments:
Much better than yesterday. Got some great rides, bit mushy but good walls. Even kind of hallowing out. I was in a nice bit when a dark haired girl dropped in on me. There was a guy taking photos with a billboard type thing stuck in the sand probably advertising his company. Didn't catch the name though.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, December 8, 2008

12/8 AM

Time: 8
Location: Turmo (after checking out a few spots and going home to get bigger board).
Tide: +4.5 and falling
Direction: 240
Size: 4-5, 6'
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions:

Comments:
Just a bit too much tide. Got a few good rides, but it took a while. It was looking better towards the point.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, December 7, 2008

12/7 AM

Time: 11:30
Location: Old Mans
Tide: +2 and falling
Direction: 247
Size: 2-4,5'
Board: Longboard
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Not as sunny as yesterday, but still pretty warm.

Comments:
Small and low tide, but grabbed a few fun rides. Alison and I took some xmas card photos. We had our summer gear on and got a lot of stares and we were called polar bears by one couple on the way back up the hill. Air and water temp were tied at 62.



Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, December 6, 2008

12/6

Time: 7
Location: Pump House, PB Point, Calumet, Old Mans... lots of paddling
Tide: +3.5 and falling
Direction: 262
Size: 3-5, 6'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62 (wore new Excel fullsuit)
Wind Conditions: None, nice bright day too. Already 70.

Comments:
Early start because I had work to do at 10 am. Really felt a difference with the full suit, I was getting waves easier than normal... more buoyant? But the waves at Pump House weren't that good, and the Point was looking good, so I paddled over there. However, the peaks were crowded so I headed to Calumet. I got a few fun rides, but again a packed peak. One old man was trunking it and tearing it up. There was a guy taking photos, but I don't think he was snapping any of me. Started to paddle back around 9:15 and waited around old mans a long time to get a wave in. Got home just in time to get online and do a little work.

Today makes me want to get an eagle...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, December 5, 2008

12/5 AM

Time: 8
Location: Pump House
Tide: +2.5
Direction: 279
Size: 3-5,6'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Slight texture

Comments:
Point was going off, I've got to check their first next time. Fun rights coming through, but longboarders were able to make the flat sections and get right into my peak. Almost dropped in on a guy and I apologized as soon as I could find him... Might head out a lunch. Had a bunch of fun controlled wave exits, a kick out to avoid a closeout and one where I went to lay back and got the underside of the board with fins in the back... no cuts, but maybe a bruise.

When I got out, there was a guy standing in the parking lot staring at the point like a little kid looking at an ice cream truck. He stood there the entire time it took me to change and put my gear away.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, December 4, 2008

12/4 Lunch

Time: 12
Location: work
Tide: 4+ peak
Direction: 276
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Bonzer as quad
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Yep, texture. Almost mini-stormy.

Comments:
Fun, mushy stuff. Good drops on a few and actually lost the rear end on one wave. Which makes me think this setup won't be good on steep, hallow waves. It's better suited to Turmo.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

12/3 Lunch

Time: 12
Location: Work
Tide: +4.5 peak
Direction: 280
Size: 2-4'
Board: old school fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: slight texture

Comments:
Good size, but mushy. There were a few closeouts, but most were rideable. Short session because I had a meeting to go to. Very few people out for this great fish day. It's been a while, but finally saw some dolphins.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

12/2 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: 4 and rising
Direction: 281
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None

Comments:
Grey skies, actually a little tough to pick out the waves. A lot of closeouts, but not really that fast so you could race 'em and not get killed.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, December 1, 2008

12/1 AM

Time: 8
Location: Turmo
Tide: +4.5 and rising
Direction: 282
Size: 3 TO 4 FEET WITH MAX SETS TO 8 FEET.
Board: Bonzer as Quad
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, glassy

Comments:
Maybe it's the tide, but not as big as yesterday - which was a little disappointing. Mostly rode the inside where there were some quick stand up almost barreling rights. Had a few slips, may need some more cold water wax.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11730 PM

Time: 4:30
Location: Turmo
Tide: 0
Direction: 280
Size: 3-4, 5'
Board: Bonzer
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Glassed off after sunset

Comments:
Got a few fun rides in before it just got too dark. Wore my full for the first time and the old West left black tar like smudge all over my neck. If this ever happens to you, olive oil works really good at removing it.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide