Sunday, November 30, 2008

11/30 Lunch ***

Time: 12 ish
Location: Turmo/Old Man's
Tide: 4 and falling
Direction: 280
Size: Head high + sets
Board: Bonze minus the center fin and with Canard Speed Dialers
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Windy, kite boarders to the south

Comments:
Alison sliced her toe up pretty good walking up the ramp! Lifeguards came, but luckily Leo was there and able to drive her home. Looks like she lost another nail.

Ok, so the surf was great. It took me a while to get into my first wave, but once I did the fins worked great. I was concerned it would be too loose and slide out, but the stuck and I had great control. At one point this guy comes rocketing over from the point on a big yellow board - sure enough it's Skip Frye probably heading in for some lunch.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, November 29, 2008

11/29 Lunch **

Time: 12
Location: Turmo?
Tide: +4 and falling
Direction: 274
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Wedding board, back to stock fins. Redid middle wax and polished the hull while waiting for Alison to get back from yoga.
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Yes, from the north

Comments:
Checked out Bird Rock a few hours ago and it was looking really good:

But heading out at Turmo with Alison...
Started out near just north of the pump house and ended up just south of PB Point. Good waves to be had all around. Got a very different feel from Wedding after going back to the stock fins. Less skatey and more drive and direction. Got some great rides where I ended up on the wave exactly where I wanted to be. Alison was on the Old Quad and got several good rides too (better day and attitude than yesterday). Towards the point, I wished I had a bit more board.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, November 28, 2008

11/28 AM **

Time: 10
Location: Pump House
Tide: +6 a falling
Direction: 198
Size: 2-3, set to 4'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Slight texture around 11

Comments:
Went with Alison and it was a fun day. Very ridable and not a lot of closeouts. Also, not a lot of people out in general. Time for leftovers. We are going to enforce a two sandwich minimum.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, November 27, 2008

11/27 PM **

Time: 2
Location: Turmo
Tide: 2 maybe
Direction: 198
Size: 2-4'
Board: Old School fish
Water Temp: 63, trunked it
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
No one out really, got a few really fun rides. Really good for low tide. Had to get out to check on the turkey, but would have stayed if we didn't have eight people coming over.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/27 AM **

Time: 8:30
Location: Law
Tide: +6 and rising, I think.
Direction: 198
Size: 2*4'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, but some rain.

Comments:
Full on rainbow at several points. Some great shapes coming though. Just a really great day with minimal crowds. Some waiting around , but great faces, nothing closing out, very workable. Put the turkey in the oven when I got back.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

will the comment last?

What surfer doesn't fantasize about a Skip Frye surfboard. I have a google alert setup for "Skip Frye" and found this posting today. So I had to comment. Now I haven't ridden any of Josh's boards, but I have seen a few and they are really beauts... but come on - that wasn't a good trade for skip.

11/26 AM **

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: +6 and rising
Direction: 194
Size: 2-3, set to 4'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
Some good size coming in, bigger than predicted I think. But the tide was kind of sapping the power. Got some fun drops and playful shoulders, but no really long rides.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

New skateboard: Arbor Sizzler

Picked up a new skateboard today at Sun Diego. There were having a pretty good sale where if you donated three items, you got 20% off your purchase. I've had my eye on the Arbor Sizzle for a little while now, and I took advantage of the deal.

I have a couple of Sector 9's. A longboard I keep in my Mustang just in case I need it. And a carbon fiber slalom type I keep on the patio. These boards are great and I have put many miles on the longboard from when I worked in La Jolla and was too cheap to pay to park. But neither one of them turned as good as I liked. The slalom lacked a kick, which made for some hairy rides for my skill level (lack of skill).

I road it around the parking lot and then into work after lunch (downhill .5 miles) and the Sizzler is great so far. It really does turn on a dime. I tightened up the trucks a bit in an effort to make it not as squirrelly. Scrubbing speed off is easy with a few powerful turns. No burning up the sole of my flops so far.

More Info:
http://www.arborsports.com/merchant2/sizzler.html

No need for three boards, so I'm selling one:
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/spo/934228590.html

11/25 AM

Time: 8 ish
Location: Just south of work
Tide: +6
Direction: 193
Size: 2-3'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, saw rainbow (small amount of rain before dawn)

Comment s:
Small, weak surf out there today. There were a couple of bigger sets, but not a lot of power. Rides were short, But I was able to get some fun ones. After skateboarding around a bit yesterday, I could really dig the rail in and pull off a fast turn.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, November 24, 2008

11/24 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work, south
Tide: +6
Direction: 210
Size: 1-3'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: yep, plus receding tide made for lot's of texture.

Comments:
Late start, so a short session. Some good size coming through, but a kind of mushy wave. There was a lot of seaweed on the inside too.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/23 AM

Time: 10
Location: Old Man's
Tide: +2
Direction:
Size: 1-3'
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
lot's of people out, but not by the getting exposed rocks. Just me and a couple of nice longboarders. Got a few rides and close to the rocks. Nothing too long though, but did squeeze in some tubes and got one head dip.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, November 22, 2008

11/22 AM

Time: 9
Location: Near tower 19, current pushing south
Tide: +4 and falling
Direction: 277
Size:2-3, sets to 4'
Board: Spacecake
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Glassy, lots of fog though.

Comments:
Good size, but not holding up (closing out). Only found a few shoulders and I had to kick out instead of ending gracefully. Short session because I wanted to get to Costco early to get the turkey.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/21 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: Work
Tide: +3 and falling
Direction:
Size:1-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None

Comments:
Fun, small wave day today. Had a guy almost drop in on me, but he did wisely decide not to go, but then I got a bad vibe from the other two guys he was surfing with. One of the guys is out there everyday and not the friendliest.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/20 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: Work
Tide:
Direction:
Size:
Board: Old Quad
Water Temp:
Wind Conditions:

Comments:
Hmm, forgot this report for a few days and now the details escape me.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

11/19 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: Work
Tide: +2.5 (mini low tide)
Direction: 197
Size: 1-3'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None, but fog is thick

Comments:
Unintentionally had to trunk it because I left my springsuit at home and couldn't go get it because I had to be in early for a meeting. Got a few peelers, but pretty small with short rides. Surprising, it wasn't that cold.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/18 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: Work
Tide: +3
Direction:
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wilen
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Fun little waves.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, November 17, 2008

11/17 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: Work
Tide: +4 and rising
Direction: 263
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Nothing really

Comments:
Considering the conditions, I was surprised how many people were out. Occasional good size set wave, but mostly longboard peelers.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, November 16, 2008

11/16 PM

Time: 3 ish
Location: Turmo
Tide: +2
Direction: 267
Size: 1-3'
Board: Longboard
Water Temp: 62 (trunks, rash guard and hat).
Wind Conditions: Texture and kite surfers at the end.

Comments:
Saw Shawn and Leo out there. Got several rides, but not as fun as this AM. Tons of seaweed on the inside. The hat was interesting, I wanted to save my eyes a bit. I think it blinded me a few times. Never lost it though.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/16 AM **

Time: 10 ish
Location: Law St
Tide: +6
Direction: 267
Size: 1-3'
Board: 9' 2" Murphy Pintail Noserider longbord
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: slight at the end

Comments:
Alison joined and it turned out to be lot's of fun. This happens pretty much every time I bust out the longboard after it has sat for a while. It was crowded, but you get a jump start on the waves compared to the fishes and what not. Today was longboard material for sure. There was a little guy out there on a foam board and he was doing really well.

Waves were peeling just right and I was able to walk, cutback and do a couple of floaters. Got out when I was hungry, but could have been a 4 hour session it was so fun.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, November 15, 2008

11/16 AM ***

Time: 9:30
Location: Near San Raf
Tide: peak +7 @ 10
Direction: 275
Size: 2-4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None noticed, but Santa Anna dry

Comments:
Another stellar day. Crowded, but everyone had plenty of rides and you could pretty much get your own peak. Did a flawless backside floater today, first time. Pretty sure a tourist snapped a photo of it. Ah, legend in my own mind.

Ok, so it's also really hot and dry because of these devil winds (but surprisingly not windy). In this out of focus picture of my shoulder you can see where the salt is left after the water quickly evaporated. This doesn't normally happen on my ride home this time of year.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, November 14, 2008

11/14 PM

Time: 4:45
Location: Old Man's
Tide: -2?
Direction: 221
Size: 2-4, sets to 5.
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Nothing noticed (Santa Anna warm)

Comments:
Lowest tide I have surfed at Old Man's. Saw rocks I didn't know existed. Ran into rocks... luckily no dings or cuts! I was surprised to get a few quality rides. As usual for this area, longboarders were all over the waves before I could get in 'em. Had a few close calls with this bearded guy. Well, nothing too closed because I was wasn't on a longboard - less to avoid. On my way down saw a guy who had a bucket full of starfish. On the way back up, I couldn't help but admire the scene. I was thinking I would be able to picture the scene when I'm 90.



Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/14 ***

Time: 10
Location: San Raf
Tide: +6 and falling
Direction: 223
Size: 2-4, sets to 5'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 62 (trunks and rubber shirt)
Wind Conditions: Lots of texture towards the end of the session.



Comments:
Met up with Adam at San Raf and surfed for a couple of hours. Not the best consistency-wise, but the ones you did get were great. Mushy, long rides, workable faces... Feet got a little cold towards the end. Lots of seaweed on the inside.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, November 13, 2008

11/13 ***

Time: 7:30
Location: Law
Tide: Heading into +7 high
Direction: 215
Size: 2-4', sets to 5
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Another fun day, but not as consistent. Had reallllly long rides that were really workable. Lots of cutbacks... Not crowded, no fighting for waves.

See the point?



Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

11/12 AM ****

Time: 7:30
Location: Law
Tide: + 6
Direction: 214
Size: 2-4', sets to 5
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Another really fun day, a little more waiting than yesterday, but really long rides. Mushy, but fun.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

11/11 PM

Time: 4:30
Location: Old Man's
Tide: +1 and rising
Direction: 214
Size: 2-3'
Board: Old Quad
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: slight

Comments:
Eh, almost didn't want to ruin the day with a less than stellar session, but I had to take advantage of the day off (Veteran's Day). Ended up getting a few outside waves, which was a surprise. Stayed out way past sunset. I could see well due to the nice orange clouds on the horizon and the almost full moon. There was a couple out on longboards. Typical boyfriend/drill instructor type teacher. She wanted to stay out, but he was hounding her to come in.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/11 AM ****

Time: 9:30
Location: na-na 19
Tide: +6.5 peak at 7
Direction: 279
Size: 2-4', sets to 5.
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None until around 11:30

Comments:
Great day! Nice size, a bit mush, but every wave was makeable. Crowd was there, but never had to fight for a wave. Started to get a little more hallow and fast, but then the wind took over.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/10 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: The Pump House
Tide: +6 and almost peaked
Direction: 279 (estimate)
Size: 3-5' set to 8!
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Winds finally died down and the current was tame. Some fun rides, but the high tide was making it tough with the backwash.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, November 9, 2008

11/9 Lunch

Time: 11:30
Location: Turmo, but ended up near Law fast
Tide: +1 and falling
Direction: 282
Size: 5-7' sets to 8!
Board: Wedding Board
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Out of control

Comments:
I was excited last night when I saw the forecast, but didn't know it would come with wind. Strong wind and a fast side shore current that took me south quick. Not a lot of surfers out, but many kiteboards and windsurfers. Struggled to get out even though the waves weren't that big or powerful, just a lot of water moving. Hope it cleans up...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, November 8, 2008

11/8 AM

Time: 8
Location: San Raf
Tide: +4 falling
Direction: 207
Size:2-3'
Board: Spacecake
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None (warm, dry Santa Anna)

Comments:
Haven't ridden this board in a while, such a different feel. Not too many good rides because of the direction.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, November 7, 2008

11/7 AM

Time: 8:30
Location: Work
Tide: +
Direction: 205
Size: 1-3'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 63 (trunked it)
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Nice warm, clear day so I trunked it. Waves were so-so. Got sent over the tiny falls a number of times. Not a good angle for this beach break?


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, November 6, 2008

11/6 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: +4 steady
Direction: 209
Size: 2-4'
Board:Wedding Board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, but dry and Santa Anna like air.

Comments:
Pretty fun little guys today. Not a lot of power, so the W.B. was a good choice.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/5 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: +4 and steady
Direction:
Size: 3-5'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Interesting day with some big steep drops and then... Blam, closeout! Still fun though.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

11/4 AM (Election Day)

Time: 8:30
Location: Pump House
Tide: +4 rising, kind of.
Direction: 215
Size: 2-4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 64
Wind Conditions: some

Comments:
Headed down to Old Man's, but it wasn't breaking. So I went and voted instead. Lines weren't bad, but it was raining and I got soaked just getting in to the school. Leo was working there and he remembered my name. He reported that the lines were already started at 6 AM and the polls didn't open until 7.

Raining! Lots of seaweed on the inside. Not many people out. Some fun rides, but water was brown by the time I got out. There was a strong odor that wasn't rotting seaweed when I got out and showered off. Talked to a guy about the voting in the parking lot. Friendly, but probably voted the opposite of me.

Hope D fails!

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, November 3, 2008

11/3 AM

Time: 8
Location: Old Man's
Tide: +4 and filling in
Direction: 273
Size: 3-5'
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 64°
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Not as good as last night. Receding tide seems to be better here. The Point was going off. Tons of bugs bouncing off of my face as I walked over the piles of sea weed to get in. A lot of sand has washed over and covered up the piles. The smell was really strong and offensive when I walked off.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, November 2, 2008

11/2 PM

Time: 4
Location: Old Mans
Tide:
Direction: 274
Size: 3-5'
Board: Sunset (6' 8" tri fin egg)
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
It was getting dark by 5:15... time change... but I will appreciate it tomorrow's session. Some really fun, long workable shoulders.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/2 AM

Time: 11
Location: Law
Tide: + 5
Direction: 264
Size:3-5'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 32
Wind Conditions: Windy

Comments:
All the good peaks were taken. Surfed Law and got some fast rides, but had to wait for shoulders. Good size, but a lot of closeouts. Looks like rain later/

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/1 PM

Time: 4 PM
Location: Turmo, Old Mans
Tide: +1 and dropping
Direction: 211
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 64
Wind Conditions: slight

Comments:
Quick session to grab a few waves before going out to dinner. Got mad dogged by a longboarder. Got a few fun rides, nice and hallowed out, but short.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, November 1, 2008

11/1 AM

Time: 10
Location: Liverpool
Tide: +5.5 and still filling in
Direction: 211
Size: 2-4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 64
Wind Conditions: picked up and made it a touch choppy

Comments:





Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide