Wednesday, December 31, 2008

12/31 Lunch

Time: 12
Location: Pump House
Tide: +4
Direction: 232
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: Windy

Comments:
This will be the last time I get to surf this year... Met up with Alison for a short session. Not many people out and small waves. One kid was out sponging in just a black t-shirt and shorts. He stayed out a long time. I was impressed. Waves were small and crumbly, not well formed but not closing out too bad. Still a fun day.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

12/30 Lunch

Time: Lunch
Location: Work
Tide: +5
Direction: 225
Size: 1-2'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Nice sunny day (until the fog rolled in around sunset). Got several fun rides in. The thing about this board is that any sudden turms breaks the tail out - which can be fun.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, December 29, 2008

12/29 Lunch

Time: 12... back to work
Location: Work
Tide: 3
Direction: 206
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: Slight texture

Comments:
Little baby waves today. Lost of people out though... One guy was out being instructed by a guy that was doing more surfing than teaching. I almost told him to get his money back, but he was having fun.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, December 28, 2008

12/28 AM

Time: 11
Location: Pump hour -> Tower 27
Tide: ~+4
Direction: 199
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: Yep, really picked up at the end to the kite boarders delight.

Comments:
Went out with Alison for some fun waves. Not too much of a crowd. Got some fun long rides in as well as a lot of hit the lip and that's it.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, December 27, 2008

12/27 **

Time: 10:30
Location: Pump House
Tide: +5 and falling
Direction: 277
Size: 2-4
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: none really until the end

Comments:
Pretty fun with some larger than expected sets. There were a lot of guys out at old mans/turmo, but not much of a crowd at the pump house. Nice long rides on some outside sets that were pretty far out. Got pretty cold at the end, plus the wind was picking up and mixing it up too much. Time for the kite boarders.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, December 26, 2008

12/26 PM ***

Time: 2:30
Location: Turmo
Tide: -1 and rising
Direction: 286
Size: 2-4, 6'
Board: Bonzer as quad
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: Windy, but not as bad as this morning

Comments:
Wow, what a difference a few hours made... or maybe it was the tide... or maybe it was the wind. Any way you slice it, it was 180 degrees different. Some pretty fun drops for Turmo. Tide was pretty low. I was way out there maybe two piers out on a peak by myself for a while.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

12/26

Time: 8
Location: Turmo -> Diamond
Tide: +6
Direction: 284
Size: 4-6, 7'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: looks to be strong onshore

Comments:
I got the warning from Turmo Steve that "It is brutal out there!" He was shaking and clutching a cup of gas station coffee. The side shore current was really strong so I walked out as much as I could. If I would have tossed my board up in the air, it would have sailed away as far as the leash would have let it. There was a lot of water moving. At times you only had a second before you had to duck-dive the next wave. I couldn't get all the way outside (breaking past the pier) and before I knew it, I was at the pump house. There was some ridable stuff on the inside and I got three rides in. By that time I was at diamond... probably less than 30 minutes in the water total and a long walk home. I hope it cleans up later today.

On the loooong walk home, an older lady stuck up a conversation with me. She said that it was looking pretty big and that she used to surf before there were wet suits. She said that was when she was a teenager and didn't care about being cold. The probably also used to be able to have fires on the beach and drink beer legally. Would I trade a wet suit for beer and fire?

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, December 25, 2008

12/25 AM **

Time: 7:30
Location:
Tide: +6 high tide
Direction: 278
Size: 4-6,7'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 59
Wind Conditions: raining

Comments:
Current was strong, pushing north. I went in at the pump house and ended up right in front of the bathrooms by the time I got out. Size wasn't as big as I was expecting, but it was still fun with some good drops. I was the only one out for a while and got some really fun rides. They were a bit too mushy to connect really long rides though. I did sneak a couple of long ones in. Also saw a big full rainbow. Merry Christmas!


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

12/24 AM **

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +5 and falling
Direction: 291
Size: 2-3'
Board: wedding board
Water Temp: 60
Wind Conditions: None yet.

Comments:
Really fun day and no one really out. There was a SUP out there and dad teaching his daughter to surf. He did some victorious wooping after wave she caught a wave, and then he snagged the board for a couple of waves. Great shape and ok size. There were a few almost barrels.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

12/23 AM **

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +5
Direction: 278
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 59?
Wind Conditions: Windy, had rained last night.

Comments:
It was coldest so far this season. I was the only one out. Getting out was a bit more of a challenge than the last few days. It was a bit stormy, but I got a few long rides on some head high stuff. It wasn't too fast and a bit mushy. It made me wish I didn't get up late.

Nixon watch broken again. Today it was beeping uncontrollably and the display just showed some random pattern. Ripcurl backup is back on duty.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, December 22, 2008

12/22 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: +4 and falling
Direction: 270
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 60
Wind Conditions: None really at first, but started to pick up with a slight mist at the end.

Comments:
There was a 10 minute window when it was really good. Other than that, just a bit too much tide at first and all mixed up at the end. Again today, I was really able to dial it in for a super long right. There were several guys out with hoods! I had to share a peak with one buy that had hoods and boots on. He would butterfly to get into a wave...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, December 21, 2008

12/20 PM

Time: 4
Location: Tower 27
Tide: +3 and rising
Direction: 192
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 60
Wind Conditions: bit

Comments:
Nice sunset surf just before going to see the Nutcracker. This second session was remarkably more fun. Got some really long rides and felt dialed in to the board. Not many people out.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

12/20 lunch

Time: lunch
Location: Turmo
Tide: +1
Direction: 192
Size: 1-3'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62, maybe colder
Wind Conditions: Yep, but not enough for kite boarders.

Comments:
Hit up Turmo with Alison for some small, gutless surf.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, December 19, 2008

12/19 Lunch

Time: 12:30
Location: PB Drive
Tide: +2 and falling
Direction:
Size:
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Texture, cold and crisp air.

Comments:
Met up with Adam for some small wave fun. Actually wasn't as bad as it looked. I was thinking Wilken, but I didn't want to have to go back up to get it and just snagged the old school fish. Turned out to be a good choice. I got some rides that were actually pretty long and it wasn't closing out right away - lots of face time.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

12/18 AM

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +3 and falling
Direction: 194
Size: 1-3'
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, cold air though.

Comments:
Fun little peelers. I was the only one out on the peak. It was like a summer day... minus the crowds & a bit cooler.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

8/16 AM

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +5 and rising
Direction: 222
Size: 2-3, 4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
What a bright, sun shinny day today compared to yesterday. Caught some fun rides with one unmakeable drop even. But the tide was mushing it out and swamping out the rides. Saw a guy take such a long right, he probably had to take a bus back to his car. Another guy was getting out as I was loading up a commented on the water quality and how he might be growing another eyeball soon.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, December 15, 2008

12/15 PM **

Time: 2
Location: Turmo
Tide: +3 and falling
Direction: 216 (est)
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: A good amount

Comments:
Turned out to be way better than yesterday. I mean WAY better. More organized with tons of long rights. Longest rides in a while with long workable almost tubes.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, December 13, 2008

12/13 Lunch

Time: 12 ish
Location: Pump House
Tide: +6 and falling
Direction: 215
Size: 3-4'
Board: Wedding Board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Strong winds

Comments:
3 TO 4 FEET INCREASING TO 6 TO 8 FEET THIS EVENING WITH MAX SETS TO 10 FEET.
Pretty stormy, yet really fun surf. Waves would just jack up out of nowhere and connect to other little waves. It was like being at a skate park. No one else was really out save for a few beginners. Perfect!




Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, December 12, 2008

New board ordered

So after mulling it around for a while, I decided to go ahead and order a new board. I've wanted a Skip Frye like double eagle and contacted Larry Mabile to make the board. I had the day of today and went down to his shop and he had a blank all ready for me (which was odd). He cut it down to a what will eventually be a 9' 6" and drew on the template so I could see it. I'm going with a quad (hardest decision), green tint, three stringers.

12/12 AM **

Time:
Location: Ocean Beach Pier
Tide: +5 and falling
Direction: 216
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
First time I have surfed here. It was really fun shape, but crowded with a mixture of kooks and assholes. There were some bigger sets rolling through every 30 minutes or so. Meet up with Adam. There were some steep drops that I didn't think I would make, but I somehow did. I probably would have been more comfortable on the wedding board or the bonzer, but I was able to get some great rides on the ol' fish. Really workable faces...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, December 11, 2008

12/11 AM

Time: AM
Location: Work
Tide: +7 and falling
Direction: 198
Size: 2-4
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None

Comments:
Another big high tide day, but this one was more fun... location maybe? It was crowded with longer boarders, but I was able to get in a lot of fun rides. Got in on those ones that explode on your back on the drop, but so mushy it was fun.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

12/10 AM

Time: 8
Location: Law
Tide: +6 and falling
Direction: 196
Size: 2-4
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, nice bright sun shiny day. Cold air temp though.

Comments:
Better than I expected with the high tide and all. Actually some nice "outside" sets came in and I got some longer than excepted rides. Not a lot of people out. One guy was inside of me, he should have had a fish!

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

12/9 AM **

Time: 8
Location: Pump House
Tide: +5.5 and falling
Direction: 246
Size: 4-5, 6
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: slight offshore, colder than normal air temp. Full suit.

Comments:
Much better than yesterday. Got some great rides, bit mushy but good walls. Even kind of hallowing out. I was in a nice bit when a dark haired girl dropped in on me. There was a guy taking photos with a billboard type thing stuck in the sand probably advertising his company. Didn't catch the name though.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, December 8, 2008

12/8 AM

Time: 8
Location: Turmo (after checking out a few spots and going home to get bigger board).
Tide: +4.5 and falling
Direction: 240
Size: 4-5, 6'
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions:

Comments:
Just a bit too much tide. Got a few good rides, but it took a while. It was looking better towards the point.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, December 7, 2008

12/7 AM

Time: 11:30
Location: Old Mans
Tide: +2 and falling
Direction: 247
Size: 2-4,5'
Board: Longboard
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Not as sunny as yesterday, but still pretty warm.

Comments:
Small and low tide, but grabbed a few fun rides. Alison and I took some xmas card photos. We had our summer gear on and got a lot of stares and we were called polar bears by one couple on the way back up the hill. Air and water temp were tied at 62.



Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, December 6, 2008

12/6

Time: 7
Location: Pump House, PB Point, Calumet, Old Mans... lots of paddling
Tide: +3.5 and falling
Direction: 262
Size: 3-5, 6'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62 (wore new Excel fullsuit)
Wind Conditions: None, nice bright day too. Already 70.

Comments:
Early start because I had work to do at 10 am. Really felt a difference with the full suit, I was getting waves easier than normal... more buoyant? But the waves at Pump House weren't that good, and the Point was looking good, so I paddled over there. However, the peaks were crowded so I headed to Calumet. I got a few fun rides, but again a packed peak. One old man was trunking it and tearing it up. There was a guy taking photos, but I don't think he was snapping any of me. Started to paddle back around 9:15 and waited around old mans a long time to get a wave in. Got home just in time to get online and do a little work.

Today makes me want to get an eagle...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, December 5, 2008

12/5 AM

Time: 8
Location: Pump House
Tide: +2.5
Direction: 279
Size: 3-5,6'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Slight texture

Comments:
Point was going off, I've got to check their first next time. Fun rights coming through, but longboarders were able to make the flat sections and get right into my peak. Almost dropped in on a guy and I apologized as soon as I could find him... Might head out a lunch. Had a bunch of fun controlled wave exits, a kick out to avoid a closeout and one where I went to lay back and got the underside of the board with fins in the back... no cuts, but maybe a bruise.

When I got out, there was a guy standing in the parking lot staring at the point like a little kid looking at an ice cream truck. He stood there the entire time it took me to change and put my gear away.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, December 4, 2008

12/4 Lunch

Time: 12
Location: work
Tide: 4+ peak
Direction: 276
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Bonzer as quad
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Yep, texture. Almost mini-stormy.

Comments:
Fun, mushy stuff. Good drops on a few and actually lost the rear end on one wave. Which makes me think this setup won't be good on steep, hallow waves. It's better suited to Turmo.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

12/3 Lunch

Time: 12
Location: Work
Tide: +4.5 peak
Direction: 280
Size: 2-4'
Board: old school fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: slight texture

Comments:
Good size, but mushy. There were a few closeouts, but most were rideable. Short session because I had a meeting to go to. Very few people out for this great fish day. It's been a while, but finally saw some dolphins.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

12/2 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: 4 and rising
Direction: 281
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None

Comments:
Grey skies, actually a little tough to pick out the waves. A lot of closeouts, but not really that fast so you could race 'em and not get killed.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, December 1, 2008

12/1 AM

Time: 8
Location: Turmo
Tide: +4.5 and rising
Direction: 282
Size: 3 TO 4 FEET WITH MAX SETS TO 8 FEET.
Board: Bonzer as Quad
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, glassy

Comments:
Maybe it's the tide, but not as big as yesterday - which was a little disappointing. Mostly rode the inside where there were some quick stand up almost barreling rights. Had a few slips, may need some more cold water wax.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11730 PM

Time: 4:30
Location: Turmo
Tide: 0
Direction: 280
Size: 3-4, 5'
Board: Bonzer
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Glassed off after sunset

Comments:
Got a few fun rides in before it just got too dark. Wore my full for the first time and the old West left black tar like smudge all over my neck. If this ever happens to you, olive oil works really good at removing it.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, November 30, 2008

11/30 Lunch ***

Time: 12 ish
Location: Turmo/Old Man's
Tide: 4 and falling
Direction: 280
Size: Head high + sets
Board: Bonze minus the center fin and with Canard Speed Dialers
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Windy, kite boarders to the south

Comments:
Alison sliced her toe up pretty good walking up the ramp! Lifeguards came, but luckily Leo was there and able to drive her home. Looks like she lost another nail.

Ok, so the surf was great. It took me a while to get into my first wave, but once I did the fins worked great. I was concerned it would be too loose and slide out, but the stuck and I had great control. At one point this guy comes rocketing over from the point on a big yellow board - sure enough it's Skip Frye probably heading in for some lunch.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, November 29, 2008

11/29 Lunch **

Time: 12
Location: Turmo?
Tide: +4 and falling
Direction: 274
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Wedding board, back to stock fins. Redid middle wax and polished the hull while waiting for Alison to get back from yoga.
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Yes, from the north

Comments:
Checked out Bird Rock a few hours ago and it was looking really good:

But heading out at Turmo with Alison...
Started out near just north of the pump house and ended up just south of PB Point. Good waves to be had all around. Got a very different feel from Wedding after going back to the stock fins. Less skatey and more drive and direction. Got some great rides where I ended up on the wave exactly where I wanted to be. Alison was on the Old Quad and got several good rides too (better day and attitude than yesterday). Towards the point, I wished I had a bit more board.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, November 28, 2008

11/28 AM **

Time: 10
Location: Pump House
Tide: +6 a falling
Direction: 198
Size: 2-3, set to 4'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Slight texture around 11

Comments:
Went with Alison and it was a fun day. Very ridable and not a lot of closeouts. Also, not a lot of people out in general. Time for leftovers. We are going to enforce a two sandwich minimum.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, November 27, 2008

11/27 PM **

Time: 2
Location: Turmo
Tide: 2 maybe
Direction: 198
Size: 2-4'
Board: Old School fish
Water Temp: 63, trunked it
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
No one out really, got a few really fun rides. Really good for low tide. Had to get out to check on the turkey, but would have stayed if we didn't have eight people coming over.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/27 AM **

Time: 8:30
Location: Law
Tide: +6 and rising, I think.
Direction: 198
Size: 2*4'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, but some rain.

Comments:
Full on rainbow at several points. Some great shapes coming though. Just a really great day with minimal crowds. Some waiting around , but great faces, nothing closing out, very workable. Put the turkey in the oven when I got back.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

will the comment last?

What surfer doesn't fantasize about a Skip Frye surfboard. I have a google alert setup for "Skip Frye" and found this posting today. So I had to comment. Now I haven't ridden any of Josh's boards, but I have seen a few and they are really beauts... but come on - that wasn't a good trade for skip.

11/26 AM **

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: +6 and rising
Direction: 194
Size: 2-3, set to 4'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
Some good size coming in, bigger than predicted I think. But the tide was kind of sapping the power. Got some fun drops and playful shoulders, but no really long rides.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

New skateboard: Arbor Sizzler

Picked up a new skateboard today at Sun Diego. There were having a pretty good sale where if you donated three items, you got 20% off your purchase. I've had my eye on the Arbor Sizzle for a little while now, and I took advantage of the deal.

I have a couple of Sector 9's. A longboard I keep in my Mustang just in case I need it. And a carbon fiber slalom type I keep on the patio. These boards are great and I have put many miles on the longboard from when I worked in La Jolla and was too cheap to pay to park. But neither one of them turned as good as I liked. The slalom lacked a kick, which made for some hairy rides for my skill level (lack of skill).

I road it around the parking lot and then into work after lunch (downhill .5 miles) and the Sizzler is great so far. It really does turn on a dime. I tightened up the trucks a bit in an effort to make it not as squirrelly. Scrubbing speed off is easy with a few powerful turns. No burning up the sole of my flops so far.

More Info:
http://www.arborsports.com/merchant2/sizzler.html

No need for three boards, so I'm selling one:
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/spo/934228590.html

11/25 AM

Time: 8 ish
Location: Just south of work
Tide: +6
Direction: 193
Size: 2-3'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, saw rainbow (small amount of rain before dawn)

Comment s:
Small, weak surf out there today. There were a couple of bigger sets, but not a lot of power. Rides were short, But I was able to get some fun ones. After skateboarding around a bit yesterday, I could really dig the rail in and pull off a fast turn.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, November 24, 2008

11/24 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work, south
Tide: +6
Direction: 210
Size: 1-3'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: yep, plus receding tide made for lot's of texture.

Comments:
Late start, so a short session. Some good size coming through, but a kind of mushy wave. There was a lot of seaweed on the inside too.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/23 AM

Time: 10
Location: Old Man's
Tide: +2
Direction:
Size: 1-3'
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
lot's of people out, but not by the getting exposed rocks. Just me and a couple of nice longboarders. Got a few rides and close to the rocks. Nothing too long though, but did squeeze in some tubes and got one head dip.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, November 22, 2008

11/22 AM

Time: 9
Location: Near tower 19, current pushing south
Tide: +4 and falling
Direction: 277
Size:2-3, sets to 4'
Board: Spacecake
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Glassy, lots of fog though.

Comments:
Good size, but not holding up (closing out). Only found a few shoulders and I had to kick out instead of ending gracefully. Short session because I wanted to get to Costco early to get the turkey.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/21 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: Work
Tide: +3 and falling
Direction:
Size:1-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None

Comments:
Fun, small wave day today. Had a guy almost drop in on me, but he did wisely decide not to go, but then I got a bad vibe from the other two guys he was surfing with. One of the guys is out there everyday and not the friendliest.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/20 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: Work
Tide:
Direction:
Size:
Board: Old Quad
Water Temp:
Wind Conditions:

Comments:
Hmm, forgot this report for a few days and now the details escape me.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

11/19 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: Work
Tide: +2.5 (mini low tide)
Direction: 197
Size: 1-3'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None, but fog is thick

Comments:
Unintentionally had to trunk it because I left my springsuit at home and couldn't go get it because I had to be in early for a meeting. Got a few peelers, but pretty small with short rides. Surprising, it wasn't that cold.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/18 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: Work
Tide: +3
Direction:
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wilen
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Fun little waves.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, November 17, 2008

11/17 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: Work
Tide: +4 and rising
Direction: 263
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Nothing really

Comments:
Considering the conditions, I was surprised how many people were out. Occasional good size set wave, but mostly longboard peelers.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, November 16, 2008

11/16 PM

Time: 3 ish
Location: Turmo
Tide: +2
Direction: 267
Size: 1-3'
Board: Longboard
Water Temp: 62 (trunks, rash guard and hat).
Wind Conditions: Texture and kite surfers at the end.

Comments:
Saw Shawn and Leo out there. Got several rides, but not as fun as this AM. Tons of seaweed on the inside. The hat was interesting, I wanted to save my eyes a bit. I think it blinded me a few times. Never lost it though.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/16 AM **

Time: 10 ish
Location: Law St
Tide: +6
Direction: 267
Size: 1-3'
Board: 9' 2" Murphy Pintail Noserider longbord
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: slight at the end

Comments:
Alison joined and it turned out to be lot's of fun. This happens pretty much every time I bust out the longboard after it has sat for a while. It was crowded, but you get a jump start on the waves compared to the fishes and what not. Today was longboard material for sure. There was a little guy out there on a foam board and he was doing really well.

Waves were peeling just right and I was able to walk, cutback and do a couple of floaters. Got out when I was hungry, but could have been a 4 hour session it was so fun.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, November 15, 2008

11/16 AM ***

Time: 9:30
Location: Near San Raf
Tide: peak +7 @ 10
Direction: 275
Size: 2-4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None noticed, but Santa Anna dry

Comments:
Another stellar day. Crowded, but everyone had plenty of rides and you could pretty much get your own peak. Did a flawless backside floater today, first time. Pretty sure a tourist snapped a photo of it. Ah, legend in my own mind.

Ok, so it's also really hot and dry because of these devil winds (but surprisingly not windy). In this out of focus picture of my shoulder you can see where the salt is left after the water quickly evaporated. This doesn't normally happen on my ride home this time of year.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, November 14, 2008

11/14 PM

Time: 4:45
Location: Old Man's
Tide: -2?
Direction: 221
Size: 2-4, sets to 5.
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Nothing noticed (Santa Anna warm)

Comments:
Lowest tide I have surfed at Old Man's. Saw rocks I didn't know existed. Ran into rocks... luckily no dings or cuts! I was surprised to get a few quality rides. As usual for this area, longboarders were all over the waves before I could get in 'em. Had a few close calls with this bearded guy. Well, nothing too closed because I was wasn't on a longboard - less to avoid. On my way down saw a guy who had a bucket full of starfish. On the way back up, I couldn't help but admire the scene. I was thinking I would be able to picture the scene when I'm 90.



Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/14 ***

Time: 10
Location: San Raf
Tide: +6 and falling
Direction: 223
Size: 2-4, sets to 5'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 62 (trunks and rubber shirt)
Wind Conditions: Lots of texture towards the end of the session.



Comments:
Met up with Adam at San Raf and surfed for a couple of hours. Not the best consistency-wise, but the ones you did get were great. Mushy, long rides, workable faces... Feet got a little cold towards the end. Lots of seaweed on the inside.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, November 13, 2008

11/13 ***

Time: 7:30
Location: Law
Tide: Heading into +7 high
Direction: 215
Size: 2-4', sets to 5
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Another fun day, but not as consistent. Had reallllly long rides that were really workable. Lots of cutbacks... Not crowded, no fighting for waves.

See the point?



Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

11/12 AM ****

Time: 7:30
Location: Law
Tide: + 6
Direction: 214
Size: 2-4', sets to 5
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Another really fun day, a little more waiting than yesterday, but really long rides. Mushy, but fun.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

11/11 PM

Time: 4:30
Location: Old Man's
Tide: +1 and rising
Direction: 214
Size: 2-3'
Board: Old Quad
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: slight

Comments:
Eh, almost didn't want to ruin the day with a less than stellar session, but I had to take advantage of the day off (Veteran's Day). Ended up getting a few outside waves, which was a surprise. Stayed out way past sunset. I could see well due to the nice orange clouds on the horizon and the almost full moon. There was a couple out on longboards. Typical boyfriend/drill instructor type teacher. She wanted to stay out, but he was hounding her to come in.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/11 AM ****

Time: 9:30
Location: na-na 19
Tide: +6.5 peak at 7
Direction: 279
Size: 2-4', sets to 5.
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None until around 11:30

Comments:
Great day! Nice size, a bit mush, but every wave was makeable. Crowd was there, but never had to fight for a wave. Started to get a little more hallow and fast, but then the wind took over.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/10 AM

Time: 7:30
Location: The Pump House
Tide: +6 and almost peaked
Direction: 279 (estimate)
Size: 3-5' set to 8!
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Winds finally died down and the current was tame. Some fun rides, but the high tide was making it tough with the backwash.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, November 9, 2008

11/9 Lunch

Time: 11:30
Location: Turmo, but ended up near Law fast
Tide: +1 and falling
Direction: 282
Size: 5-7' sets to 8!
Board: Wedding Board
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Out of control

Comments:
I was excited last night when I saw the forecast, but didn't know it would come with wind. Strong wind and a fast side shore current that took me south quick. Not a lot of surfers out, but many kiteboards and windsurfers. Struggled to get out even though the waves weren't that big or powerful, just a lot of water moving. Hope it cleans up...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, November 8, 2008

11/8 AM

Time: 8
Location: San Raf
Tide: +4 falling
Direction: 207
Size:2-3'
Board: Spacecake
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: None (warm, dry Santa Anna)

Comments:
Haven't ridden this board in a while, such a different feel. Not too many good rides because of the direction.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, November 7, 2008

11/7 AM

Time: 8:30
Location: Work
Tide: +
Direction: 205
Size: 1-3'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 63 (trunked it)
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Nice warm, clear day so I trunked it. Waves were so-so. Got sent over the tiny falls a number of times. Not a good angle for this beach break?


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, November 6, 2008

11/6 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: +4 steady
Direction: 209
Size: 2-4'
Board:Wedding Board
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: None, but dry and Santa Anna like air.

Comments:
Pretty fun little guys today. Not a lot of power, so the W.B. was a good choice.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/5 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: +4 and steady
Direction:
Size: 3-5'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Interesting day with some big steep drops and then... Blam, closeout! Still fun though.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

11/4 AM (Election Day)

Time: 8:30
Location: Pump House
Tide: +4 rising, kind of.
Direction: 215
Size: 2-4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 64
Wind Conditions: some

Comments:
Headed down to Old Man's, but it wasn't breaking. So I went and voted instead. Lines weren't bad, but it was raining and I got soaked just getting in to the school. Leo was working there and he remembered my name. He reported that the lines were already started at 6 AM and the polls didn't open until 7.

Raining! Lots of seaweed on the inside. Not many people out. Some fun rides, but water was brown by the time I got out. There was a strong odor that wasn't rotting seaweed when I got out and showered off. Talked to a guy about the voting in the parking lot. Friendly, but probably voted the opposite of me.

Hope D fails!

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, November 3, 2008

11/3 AM

Time: 8
Location: Old Man's
Tide: +4 and filling in
Direction: 273
Size: 3-5'
Board: Sunset
Water Temp: 64°
Wind Conditions: None really

Comments:
Not as good as last night. Receding tide seems to be better here. The Point was going off. Tons of bugs bouncing off of my face as I walked over the piles of sea weed to get in. A lot of sand has washed over and covered up the piles. The smell was really strong and offensive when I walked off.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, November 2, 2008

11/2 PM

Time: 4
Location: Old Mans
Tide:
Direction: 274
Size: 3-5'
Board: Sunset (6' 8" tri fin egg)
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Slight

Comments:
It was getting dark by 5:15... time change... but I will appreciate it tomorrow's session. Some really fun, long workable shoulders.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/2 AM

Time: 11
Location: Law
Tide: + 5
Direction: 264
Size:3-5'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 32
Wind Conditions: Windy

Comments:
All the good peaks were taken. Surfed Law and got some fast rides, but had to wait for shoulders. Good size, but a lot of closeouts. Looks like rain later/

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/1 PM

Time: 4 PM
Location: Turmo, Old Mans
Tide: +1 and dropping
Direction: 211
Size: 1-3'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 64
Wind Conditions: slight

Comments:
Quick session to grab a few waves before going out to dinner. Got mad dogged by a longboarder. Got a few fun rides, nice and hallowed out, but short.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, November 1, 2008

11/1 AM

Time: 10
Location: Liverpool
Tide: +5.5 and still filling in
Direction: 211
Size: 2-4'
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 64
Wind Conditions: picked up and made it a touch choppy

Comments:





Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Friday, October 31, 2008

10/31 PM

Time: 3 PM
Location: Turmo/Old Mans
Tide: +1 and falling
Direction: 214
Size: 2-4'
Board: "4" Fish
Water Temp: 64
Wind Conditions: Slight texture

Comments:
So I spent too much time at Costco because I somehow lost my Card in the store. No really, I lost it sometime after I showed it to get in and when I was about to check out. Anyway, I stopped by Calumet on the way home and although it wasn't epic, it was working. I went home and had a snack and rode my bike back down. But it was too late. Even though the tide was dropping, it stopped working. I rode over to the north stairs of Turmo and saw some workable stuff and went out there for a bit. But then I got worried that I didn't lock up my bike (confidence blown by the Costco fiasco) and I got out.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

10/31 AM

Time: 9:30
Location: San Raf
Tide: +4 and rising
Direction: 215
Size: 2-4'
Board: Wedding Board
Water Temp: 64
Wind Conditions: None really


Comments:
Really fun rides. Get in, head to the nose, get back when the speed picks up and work the wave. Longer rides than normal. Very nice, clear and warm.





Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, October 30, 2008

10/30 AM

Time: 8
Location: Work
Tide: + 4 and rising
Direction:215°
Size: 2-3'
Board: Old School Fish
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Fun summer/longboard kind of waves. Got some good nose time in and was able to work the wave for some fun little rides.

Also saw a shooting star around 8 PM last night. Which was odd because I didn't think the sky was clear enough. I haven't seen one in years and I don't know if I have ever seen one in San Diego proper.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

10/29 Lunch

Time: 12:00 (short session)
Location: Work
Tide: +3 and going down
Direction: 215°
Size: 1-3'
Board: Old School
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Oddly, the fog was still around. Saw a rainbow too. Still summer like conditions. Had some really fun rides. Saw someone taking photos of their friend who was learning to surf.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

10/29 AM

Time: 8:30 (short session)
Location: Work
Tide: +5 and rising
Direction: 215°
Size: 1-3'
Board: Old School
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Like a summer day. The high tide was making for swampy conditions, but if you were in just the right place there were fun rides to be had. I was able to really throw the board around, it's so maneuverable compared to the Wilken. That is to say the Wilken gave me the confidence to try more moves.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

10/28 AM

Time: 8 AM
Location: Work
Tide: +5 and still going
Direction: 219°
Size: 2-3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: Pretty glassy

Comments:
There were a few big sets, but mostly smaller stuff. Fun rides though. Wilken has that longboard glide. Bigger sets were sneakers that caught me off guard. Duck diving is possible, but a little tough on bigger waves. I had to remember how to turtle, felt like a mouse hanging on to a cork.

Wife comes home late tonight, so last night bachelor living for a while. No more eating mac & cheese out of the pot while lying in my underwear on the couch... Also, I think I'm going to leave Wilken at work since I'm out of room at home.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, October 27, 2008

10/27 AM

Time: 8:30 AM
Location: Work
Tide: +6 peak
Direction: 227°
Size: 2-4'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 64°
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
I packed both the Wilken and the pill today. Fog was thick and you couldn't see the breaks. I check Turmo first and talked to a guy that went out at the pumphouse who reported long waits, but some big sets.

So these guys are building some sort of monument at Turmo near the bathroom. This morning they must have hit a water pipe while digging because there was a geyser flowing at the top of the ramp. These guys were running around trying to figure out how to turn off the source while another guy was getting wet trying to unload fencing stuff from his truck.

Then I went to the end of Reed. Again, you couldn't see anything. I ended up guessing and taking the Wilken. As I was headed out, there was a guy packing up and I asked him if the board was too big and if it was closing out like yesterday. He the board over and said it was fine. You just have wait for shoulders.

The shoulder were few between and there were some steep sets that I let go by. When I did get in, they were mushier than the looked and I had a bit of trouble controling the tail. I think the fin is too small.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Sunday, October 26, 2008

10/26 PM

Time:
Location:
Tide: +4 and rising
Direction:
Size: 2-4'
Board: Pill
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Windy

Comments:
Again, bigger than predicted. Saw some head high waves near the pier. I rode from Calumet park to Reed St. Calumet was breaking but with the tide filling in I thought it would be dying off. Reed street to the pier was big and closing out. I ended up at Law and too a few shoulders that I could find.

There were some kids body boarding on the inside. If it was summertime, I would have said something to them. And considering the size and impact they were looking for trouble in the impact zone. But, man, they were having a great time.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

10/25 AM

Time: 9 AM
Location:Turmo
Tide: +6 and dropping
Direction: 197
Size: 2 - 3'
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 64
Wind Conditions: noticeable, coming from the north.

Comments:
Bigger than predicted. The point was going off. Guys on the outside with longboards were getting lots of good rides. It would break way out, kind of die out and then wall up and close out on the inside.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Saturday, October 25, 2008

10/25 PM

Time: ~6 PM
Location: Tourmaline (Turmo)
Tide: +4 a filling in
Direction: 198°
Size: 2-4'
Board: 7' 2" Wilkin
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: some texture

Comments:
Took me a couple of waves to figure the board out, but it was fun. Good surf for Turmo. Several times I had to scoot up to the nose to get on the wave. The tail is kind of wide and square. I couldn't snap the board around. Should be a fun board that I might keep at the office... since I'm out of room at home.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

10/25 AM

Time: ~ 9 AM
Location: Tower 19, pushed north
Tide: + 5
Direction: 198°
Size: 2 - 4'
Board: 6' Pill
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: slight texture

Comments:
Water was really clear and the sun was shinning. Waves were very fun, but it was more packed than normal. Most rides were pretty long with very fun workable shoulders.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

"new" board

Wilken Late '60s Transition Era Single Fin Surfboarrd

From the ad:
If you dig boards from the end of the longboard era and dawn of the shortboard revolution, then you will love this board. This board is in very good condition. It has the original plastic fin (I believe it's a Waveset), and there have been a few ding repairs as you can see in the photos, but it should be water tight and ready to ride or just hang on your wall as a showpiece.



I met the guy at Albertsons. He showed up in a late 60's bus full of boards. The bus looked only slightly better than my old one. I was surprised to hear that he drove down from LA... I didn't think that could go freeway speeds.

Anyway, board in hand I walked home realizing it didn't have a leash loop. I pretty much always surf with a leash. Vince didn't look like a guy that used a leash and I didn't dare say anything about it. I dragged out my repair kit and googled away trying to figure out how to make one with resign and fiberglass strands. Then I had the brilliant idea to call a surf shop to see if there was some sort of stick on product I could use. Sure enough Surfco makes this thing called an e-z plug. It was easy to put on and worked great for the first session. Probably took me 5 mintes to do. I would recommend this if you have a similar situation.

The first session was fun and I surfed until it was dark. When I got out and was waiting to shower off, this guy asked me if it was a v-bottom. To which I sheepishly replied"Not really". He asked me what year it was, for which I didn't have an answer. He ran his hand over the hull tail and said he thought it was a 70's board. We also talked about the fin and he talked about how it was the "bees knees" back in the day. This guy had a nice quad Gordan & Smith and I kind of think he was affiliated with the brand. I should have asked...

Friday, October 24, 2008

10/24 AM

Time: 7:30 AM
Location: South of work
Tide: +5 and dropping
Direction: 198°
Size: 2-4'
Board: Quad Pill
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Still pretty dry, but air temp was noticeably cooler. Wore my springsuit, but was still chilly. However, it was worth it. The shape was great and rides were pretty long.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Thursday, October 23, 2008

10/23 AM

Time: 8 AM
Location: Law
Tide: +4 and falling
Direction: 199°
Size: 2-4'
Board: 6' pill
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: None noticed, but Santa Ana conditions have dried out the air.

Comments:
Little less power than yesterday, but better shape. Looked like a longboarder's dream, but I was surprised to effortlessly pick up my first wave. Didn't see anything over a couple of feet.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

10/22 AM

Time: 8:30
Location: Law
Tide: 3+ flat
Direction: 211°
Size: 2-4'
Board: 6' 8" Murphy Bonzer
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: None noticed

Comments:
Not as good as yesterday (more closeouts), or maybe just not as good a spot. The pier was looking better, but didn't have time to paddle over. Only got a few rides, but they were longer than I expected. Had trouble getting into a lot of 'em. Could have used more power... One ride I was kind of off balance and leaning way back on one foot. Normally I would have fallen, but I was able to recover on this board.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

10/21 AM

Time: ~8 AM
Location: Just south of normal, my typical peak was too crowded
Tide: +3, flat
Direction: 212°
Size: 2-4'
Board: 6' 2" keel fin fish
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: Nothing really

Comments:
Wore the rubber shirt. Surf was really fun, but crowded. Ended up walking south. Took a while to get the first wave a lot was rolling through that wasn't too makeable with this old school fish. But got a lot of fun rides that were long and really workable.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

Monday, October 20, 2008

10/20 AM

Time: 8:15 AM (late start, short session)
Location: In front of work
Tide: +3 and rising
Direction: 209°
Size: 2-3'
Board: 6'4" single fin Space Cake
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: not noticable

Comments:
Trunked it, but was pretty cold when I got out 45 minutes later. Not a lot of rides, but the shape was good with nice shoulders. Probably would have been more fun on a fish. Single fin just needs a little more push.

Sources:
Swell Direction Size & Water Temp Tide

Sunday, October 19, 2008

10/19 AM

Time: 9 AM
Location: Tower 19
Tide: +3 and rising
Direction: 210°
Size: 1'-2'
Board: 6' 8" Sunset egg
Water Temp: 62°
Wind Conditions: very light

Comments:
Super fun, the backwash was causing some bigger waves and drops than 1'-2' indicates. Actually swallowed some water trying to ride one all the way in when it exploded on me on the inside. You could time the backwash up with the coming wave and find the prefect spot, not many long rides though as they were quickly swallowed up by the next backwash.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

leg rope

At the poing this happened, I hadn't been surfing very long at all. I know this because I only had one board. It was a 9' 6" single fin Native that I bought used at PB Surf Club for $400. It was a beautiful... I'm gonna say late summer day. A longboard day with big fat green lines rolling in. Just rolling in and eh, barely breaking.

We came up the stairs near Diamond St. I bet I set my board wax up in the grass so it could get nice and melty. We were exhausted and probably thinking of beers and tater tots at Bubs.

"You know what your problem is?" This big goateed guy said to Frank. I didn't know who the guy was. Did Frank drop in on him? We are big guys, but this guy and his crew were bigger. I was already slinking away, like I don't know this Frank guy. I don't know if he said it twice, but it seemed like there was a long pause. It was very dramatic in a cowboy movie type of way.

"What?" Frank said raising his eyebrows, and I imagine he lowered his stance so he wouldn't be knocked over to easily. There were probably a few other guys out there with us, but at this point Frank might as well have been alone. I think the pigeons stopped looking for scraps and looked up to see a smackdown.

"You're leash" the guy said with a grin. "You'd catch a lot more waves if you didn't have that leg rope." Ah, he must have seen us struggling.

So this was our saying for a while. "You know what your problem is?" We would say and jab a finger menacingly at someone, sneering and eyelids scrunched. "You need to have better posture while sitting at your desk, here let me demonstrate!" or say something similarly benign and do a 180 with our demenour.

Now I don't see Frank that often anymore. We hardly ever surf together even though, sadly enough, he live less than a mile from me. But next time I see him I will pull that line out.

On a side note, I almost always wear a leash because I don't want to clobber some poor kids day. Nothing worse than getting a find stuck in your head while building a sandcastle. I always surf like I don't have one and try to end my ride one my board or with the board in hand.

Saturday, October 18, 2008

10/18 PM

Time: 3:30 PM
Location: Law St
Tide: +1 and lowering
Direction: 196
Size: 1-2'
Board: 6' 2" Quad fin fish (wedding board)
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: strong from the north

Comments:
Third string type conditions with more blue Costco boards than regular ones. Tons of kite surfers too. There was a European couple on the peak that probably just started teaching themselves to surf. They were pearling a lot, but always came up laughing. I watched the guy kick and flail about and then stand up too early, but as the session went on he was picking it up.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

10/18 AM

Time: ~9 AM
Location: Tower 19, Mission Beach (MB)
Tide: +5
Direction: 196°
Size: 1-3'
Water Temp: 63°
Wind Conditions: None at start, enough for slight texture at the end

Very clear water and skies, rode my bike down to tower 19 and surfed the really high tide backwash waves. Again on the 6'2 wooden keel fish which provided some really fun rides that almost all ended up breaking on the beach. Not a lot of people were out.

Older reports

10/17

AM Session: ~ 9 AM, just south of the coaster in MB. 6' 4" Quad fish. A lot of tide, but fun shape. Longboarder type wave. It was pretty crowded and I sat right on the flag (after I got in trouble with the lifeguard. But that wasn't working so I moved right under a couple of janitors (stand up paddlers). I was probably out for an hour in trunks and rubber shirt, I wasn't too cold and got an frozen latte at Costco.

PM Session: ~4 PM, just north of Pipes in Cardiff after dropping off Nixon Super Hero SS for yet another service (don't buy this watch). 6'2 wooden keel fish, but could have used a longboard. Tide was really low and there wasn't near the same power as in the AM. And there was very little power this morning.I got a few waves and heard Pizza Port calling.

10/16

Lunch Session: ~11:30 with Miles and Keith and a few he knows. Great session and I'm glad I brought the 6'2 wooden keel fish. Lot's of fun shape, very workable faces.

First post / template

The idea here is to record each surf sessions details so when the conditions repeat I'll know what was working and what wasn't.

Here the format to start with:

Time:
Location:
Tide:
Direction:
Size:
Water Temp:
Wind Conditions: