3/26 Lunch

Time: 12ish
Location: Turmo
Tide: +2?
Direction: 280
Size: 2-4
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: lots of texture, not enough for kiteboarding

Comments:
Checked out work, and although the size was good the rides were short. So I headed over to Turmo.

Really an odd day... It was like there was too much tide and stormy washing machine like waves. But there were plenty of fun rides to be had. There was some oddly good shape.

When I first got out, there was a lady kind of laying on here board and too close to shore to be catching waves. I realized when I got out that she was dazed/hurt. I talked to her and she had hit her head pretty bad, but she wasn't bleeding.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

3/10 PM

Time: 6
Location: Work
Tide: +1 and rising
Direction: 280
Size: 2-4
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 56
Wind Conditions: slight texture

Comments:
First post work sunset session in a long time. I forgot how fun it is to get out of work and surf. There were a several shortboarders out and the waves were borderline closeout, but I got some great rides. Only one left though. I had to kickout several times, but also was able to stay on the board and hop over a few right before they closed out. Last wave was a great right that involved a lot of directional changes to keep in the right part of the wave.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

2/15 Lunch

Time: 11:30
Location: North TP
Tide: +3
Direction: 280
Size: 2-4, 5'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 56
Wind Conditions: Slight, but not too bad

Comments:
Probably could have used a different board here today... buy honestly this wasn't the best spot either. I did get some fun rides, but they were all quick and get out before the closeout. I was worried every time I got on a wave that it would closeout and break the board.
Ate at Sammys Pizza place while waiting for Alison to finish up her walk. I got the combo wings, salad and slice with a beer on the side.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/14 AM

Time: 8:30
Location: Work
Tide: +4.5 and rising
Direction: 280
Size: small 1-2
Board: Wilken
Water Temp: 58
Wind Conditions: None, but Santa Anna nice

Comments:
I was the only one out! Actually towards the end, there was a guy on the inside... and I was already way inside. These little guys were barely breaking and when the did it was right upon the shore.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

12/3 Lunch

Time: 12
Location: Work
Tide: +4.5 peak
Direction: 280
Size: 2-4'
Board: old school fish
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: slight texture

Comments:
Good size, but mushy. There were a few closeouts, but most were rideable. Short session because I had a meeting to go to. Very few people out for this great fish day. It's been a while, but finally saw some dolphins.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11730 PM

Time: 4:30
Location: Turmo
Tide: 0
Direction: 280
Size: 3-4, 5'
Board: Bonzer
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Glassed off after sunset

Comments:
Got a few fun rides in before it just got too dark. Wore my full for the first time and the old West left black tar like smudge all over my neck. If this ever happens to you, olive oil works really good at removing it.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/30 Lunch ***

Time: 12 ish
Location: Turmo/Old Man's
Tide: 4 and falling
Direction: 280
Size: Head high + sets
Board: Bonze minus the center fin and with Canard Speed Dialers
Water Temp: 63
Wind Conditions: Windy, kite boarders to the south

Comments:
Alison sliced her toe up pretty good walking up the ramp! Lifeguards came, but luckily Leo was there and able to drive her home. Looks like she lost another nail.

Ok, so the surf was great. It took me a while to get into my first wave, but once I did the fins worked great. I was concerned it would be too loose and slide out, but the stuck and I had great control. At one point this guy comes rocketing over from the point on a big yellow board - sure enough it's Skip Frye probably heading in for some lunch.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide