Friday, May 8, 2009

5/8 AM **

Time: 8
Location: Turmo
Tide: +3
Direction: 277
Size: 3-5, 6
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: some texture

Not many people out today. Maybe too many days in a row of good surf made people sore. An outside set caught pretty much everyone off guard. After that, I spend all my time outside. Got some great long rides with my last being my best. It was so long that I laid back down for a bit as it reformed and cleaned up and then I fell on to my back and rode it for a while.

The key pocket on my wetsuit recently ripped to shreds, so I've been using the key pocket on my leash. Today, I had to bail on a closeouts that left the board tombstoning. When I was getting it out of the pocket back at the car, the key was bent.

We had the second-trimester ultrasound today.

Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

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