5/8 AM **

Time: 8
Location: Turmo
Tide: +3
Direction: 277
Size: 3-5, 6
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: some texture

Comments:
Not many people out today. Maybe too many days in a row of good surf made people sore. An outside set caught pretty much everyone off guard. After that, I spend all my time outside. Got some great long rides with my last being my best. It was so long that I laid back down for a bit as it reformed and cleaned up and then I fell on to my back and rode it for a while.

The key pocket on my wetsuit recently ripped to shreds, so I've been using the key pocket on my leash. Today, I had to bail on a closeouts that left the board tombstoning. When I was getting it out of the pocket back at the car, the key was bent.

We had the second-trimester ultrasound today.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

3/30 AM ***

Time: 10
Location: PB Point
Tide: +3
Direction: 277
Size: 3-5, 6'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 60
Wind Conditions:

Comments:
The power went out at our office around 9:30, so I headed to Turmo. It turned out to be an excellent day. I was sitting waaaay outside and getting some fast, steep rights. There was a lot of waiting, and I should have moved north sooner. Skip was out there getting some great rides. I saw that guy Mike and we chatted for a while. Talked to another guy that had a quad KG for a bit. Good times all around and really nice day.

Some rides were so steep I couldn't make some turns and lost my balance. I honestly let a few go that I should have taken. There was a crowd, but it wasn't out of control. I got some great rides, but not a of long ones. Sometimes I came out shaking from the adrenaline. I did finish up with one long right.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

2/6 AM **

Time: 10
Location: Turmo
Tide: +4 and falling
Direction: 277
Size: 3-5, 6'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 56
Wind Conditions: Windy, stormy

Comments:
Whoa, some fun ones out there. I was the only one out there too. There were some good overhead waves that were workable, hit the lip, long ride style. Some waiting between sets, but good stuff still. Not too stormy...

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/22 AM

Time: 7 ish
Location: Turmo
Tide: +5 and falling
Direction: 277
Size: 3 To 5 Feet With Mixed Swell.
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 56
Wind Conditions: None, but the weather is starting to change. It wasn't sunny and rain is predicted later today.

Comments:
Shelby and Alison came walked down with me and took a few photos. Honestly, it did pick up a bit after they left. No, really! Got a bit of a late start which resulted in a quick session. I got several good rides, but it was closing out on the inside (odd for Turmo). The tide was high and there you could feel the backwash.







Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/19 Lunch **

Time: 1:30 is
Location: Old Mans
Tide: +1 and rising
Direction: 277
Size: 4-6'
Board: Double Eagle
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: None really, hot too

Comments:
First time on the new double eagle! Finally got the board. I was a little disappointed not to have gotten it this past Friday, and I really had to followup with them today to get it. That being said, I'm just really impressed with the way the board turned out. The tint turned out just how I imagined it would. She's my biggest board at 9' 6" and my heaviest at 20 lbs. What a ride! I snagged my first wave with very little effort and road it a good distance. She's nice, stable and goes where I wanted. I had several rally long rides and only once didn't have a graceful landing.


Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

1/11 Lunch

Time: Noonish
Location: Turmo/Old Man's
Tide: +4 falling
Direction: 277
Size: 2-3
Board: Longboard
Water Temp: 57, but the air was 70's!
Wind Conditions: Nothing too bad

Comments:
Talked to a guy with a beautiful blue tint Skip Frye Double Eagle for a bit at the stairs to Old Man's. I asked him if "that" was a double eagle and he just kind of shrugged. And then pointed out a Skip and mentioned his friend was on a really nice pink board. I couldn't really tell because of the glare, but it was really nice out.

Then I walked down to surf and saw Skip loading up for the day. A lot of people were getting ready for the game (spoiler alert: San Diego loses). I had a fun longboard day and got some loooong rides. Tried to take videos, but nothing too solid, photos really show how nice it was though... like a summer day.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

12/27 **

Time: 10:30
Location: Pump House
Tide: +5 and falling
Direction: 277
Size: 2-4
Board: Wedding board
Water Temp: 57
Wind Conditions: none really until the end

Comments:
Pretty fun with some larger than expected sets. There were a lot of guys out at old mans/turmo, but not much of a crowd at the pump house. Nice long rides on some outside sets that were pretty far out. Got pretty cold at the end, plus the wind was picking up and mixing it up too much. Time for the kite boarders.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide

11/22 AM

Time: 9
Location: Near tower 19, current pushing south
Tide: +4 and falling
Direction: 277
Size:2-3, sets to 4'
Board: Spacecake
Water Temp: 62
Wind Conditions: Glassy, lots of fog though.

Comments:
Good size, but not holding up (closing out). Only found a few shoulders and I had to kick out instead of ending gracefully. Short session because I wanted to get to Costco early to get the turkey.

Sources:
Swell Direction | Size & Water Temp | Tide